Book description
An eclectic mix of exciting stories every surfer will love
This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of
monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the
breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well
as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with
perfect breaks and beautiful beaches.
Be thrilled by legendary surfers like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian
as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines.
Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater are
recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret surf spots.
There are fascinating encounters with surfing's true characters, men
like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record holder Garrett McNamara;
appearances by deadly sharks; stories of big wave surfing by night;
and an account of how Agatha Christie's famous disappearance for 11
days in December 1926 might just have been because she was on a surf trip.
Travel from giants like California's Maverick's and Maui's Jaws to
tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring-do of a man like Colonel
'Mad Jack' Churchill. Turn the pages to flick between the left and
rights of Britain, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange places in between.
Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair
surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and some are illustrated with
colour photographs.
ALEX WADE is a former white-collar boxer, media lawyer and
freelance journalist who lives and surfs in Cornwall. As well as
running the Surf Nation blog, he regularly contributes to
The Times, The Sunday Times, The Independent, The Guardian
and other national newspapers. He covers diverse areas as a freelance
journalist and has written columns for The Independent on
Sunday, timesonline.
co. uk and Flush magazine on boxing, legal life and poker.
Alex has travelled the globe extensively. He has written about New
York, Albania and Kazakhstan; Barbados, Ireland and Andalucia; Captain
Cook country, Mexico and Francis Ford Coppola's retreats in Belize and
Guatemala. Despite a restless life he thinks he's found paradise in
West Penwith, Cornwall, where he lives with his wife Karen, an
accomplished abstract artist, and their two sons.
